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A Study in Sequins

Continuing with our #DVFCraft series, Summer 17’s printed sequins come into focus.

Evolving two principal motifs from the Spring collection—hyper-real florals and intricate sequins—chief creative officer Jonathan Saunders designed a custom textile for Summer 17 that uses technology to create an innovative and modern textile.

Designed by hand, the Bournier floral was informed by the rich bouquets of roses you’d expect to find in a charming English country garden. Sketches of the blooming flowers are transferred into computer files, where the unexpected and unusual color combinations are decided. For Summer 17, the Bournier print comes in three colorways: black, peach, and acid yellow.

Translucent sequins are machine sewn onto delicate mesh fabric in orderly lines, each sequin overlapping the next, and every one individually fastened so that they won’t unravel when the finished fabric is cut. Meanwhile, the floral design is printed onto special heat transfer paper. Together, the yards of translucent sequin fabric and the printed paper are passed through the transfer printing machine. Once the sheets of fabric are secured in place, the machine uses heat—set to a specific, consistent temperature—to ‘melt’ the print from the transfer paper onto the sequin fabric.

Back in our design studio, panels of the finished unique textile are draped and positioned on a mannequin, until just the right silhouette is achieved. The fabric is then cut by hand on the cutting table, and finally machine sewn into the finished garment; in this case, the Tailored Pencil Skirt.

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